Mornings open indoors, under the vaulted beamed ceilings where light pours through the wall of windows and brings the greenery inside before anyone has stepped out. Coffee migrates to the loggia on its own. By midday the compound belongs to the outdoors, the saltwater pool and spa on one side, a dry sauna for after the swim, and the shaded al fresco table doing most of the real work of the day. Meals stretch long past when they should end. We found ourselves thinking the indoor dining table mostly holds car keys and sunglasses, because nobody chooses a roof when the loggia is right there. Golden hour settles soft on the flagstone and the pale plaster walls. After dark the upstairs master suite is the payoff, bright by day and hushed by night, with an oversized soaking tub and a glass shower for rinsing off the pool. The bunk room downstairs, meant for the kids, quietly becomes the room everyone wants to claim.